The risotto with shaved black truffles at Sirio.
Sirio, the tranquil mod restaurant in the luxuriant Pierre Hotel, has a new fall menu from their new talented new Executive Chef, Massimo Bebber. This place is not cheap, but it’s about what you’d expect to find in the rarefied stratosphere of Fifth Avenue across the street from Central Park. Bebber recently invited Gothamist to a press preview of his new fall menu, and we were particularly impressed with the Capesante con Funghi: Seared Maine sea scallops, chanterelles purée, roasted wild mushrooms, black truffle sauce. Obviously that’s a fresh & real black truffle sauce, not some ersatz truffle oil simulacrum, which, for $39, it better be. The sauce is a rich but not overpowering compliment to the scallops, which are fat and fresh and succulent.
SIRIO: A FABULOUS, FASHIONABLE, AND INCREDIBLY TASTEFUL FASHION WEEK DINING EXPERIENCE
SEPTEMBER 9TH, 2013
There is always something delightful about going to dinner in a hotel as elegant and historic as the Pierre on Fifth Avenue. But with the announcement that the Sirio Ristorante was offering a special menu to celebrate New York Fashion Week, it seemed like an excellent opportunity to sample new chef Massimo Bebber’s cuisine. Perusing the prix fixe menu, available for both lunch and dinner, it was wonderful to see choices that will suit the calorie-counting, waistline-watching set without sacrificing the signature style for which the food of Central Italy is known.
I decided on tuna tartar to start, which was both deliciously fresh and perfectly seasoned. My dining companion had a beautiful salad of bitter arugula and velvety baby artichokes, garnished with salty slivers of tasty parmensan. Our second course, small plates of fresh pasta, were equally satisfying, although I coveted the roasted cherry tomatoes on his plate of garganelli since they exploded in your mouth like scrumptious little bombs. My gnocchi were a fabulously sensual experience; a heady smell of truffle oil rose from my bowl, a cloud of parmesan foam floated on top, and the delicious little pieces themselves were the most beautiful texture in my mouth.
It was when we came to our entrée choices that there was a little dissent between the two of us but thankfully, he is a generous, sharing man who didn’t mind that I stole half his scallops which both of us were in raptures over. They were just the most amazing morsels; perfectly seared with a slight caramelization on the outside whilst remaining succulent and soft on the inside. The earthy chantrelle puree that accompanied them was the perfect balance to their sweetness. My swordfish was also cooked to perfection – for me, medium rare on this meaty fish really showcases its beautiful, delicate flavor.
There was no argument over dessert since there was only one choice but we both in heaven by then anyway; creamy ricotta cheesecake with a tangy citrus salad was the perfect end to a most memorable meal.
Our whole dining experience was overseen by the incredibly gracious and knowledgeable Massimo Schiavon, who is not only the restaurant manager but has also selected some amazing wines to pair with each course; we are still talking about the ‘Missoni’ Cabernet Sauvignon that elevated my gnocchi course into something sublime and the Sancerre Rosé ‘Les Marennes’ which perfectly complimented those to-die-for scallops.
It is always with great glee – and a certain amount of smugness – that you can feel you’ve truly made a discovery on the culinary scene. The combination of a remarkable chef, a charming manager and the dining elegance at Sirio is extraordinary and if this menu, which is remarkably good value, is anything to go by, I will become one of their regular customers.
Regarding the latter, you’ve now got Sirio. It’s a low-slung hall of mod-’60s sexiness and serious Italian fare. It’s taking reservations right now and opening November 1 at the Pierre. And this is how you’ll make it sing…
Dinner for two. Or, if you’re feeling ambitious (and potent), three.
You’ve basically stepped into Mastroianni-era Italy here. Dim lighting, horizontal lines, banquettes with white leather piping, and mushroom risotto and lamb shank with artichokes. We presume that’s what he ate. Continue reading
Upper East Siders with a penchant for pasta will soon be spoiled for choice. First up, Sirio Ristorante(795Fifth Ave.), a spot serving classic Tuscan cuisine, opens in the Pierre Hotel later this month.It’s the brain child of legendary restaurateur (and creator of Le Cirque) Sirio Maccioni, and his sons, Marco, Mauro and Mario. “Sirio is not going to be a ?ne dining experience at the same level as Le Cirque,” says Marco Maccioni,who has hired designer Adam Tihany to turn the space that was Le Caprice into a dining room inspired by Fellini’s “La Dolce Vita.” Diversifying in Le Cirque’s ’hood makes sense, says Maccioni: “The Upper East Side is our home. Mydad made his success in that neighborhood.So it’s a return of sorts.And I grew up in this neighborhood. Literally,it’s my playground; so it’s nice to be able to walk to work.”
“Legendary restaurateur Sirio Maccioni will bring a version of his Las Vegas Italian restaurant to the former Le Caprice space in the Pierre Hotel. Adam Tihany is designing a retro space that will include vintage photos of Maccioni with his famous clientele. Sirio and his posse were recently in Italy doing research for the new menu, which will focus on the food of Tuscany.”