The risotto with shaved black truffles at Sirio.
Sirio, the tranquil mod restaurant in the luxuriant Pierre Hotel, has a new fall menu from their new talented new Executive Chef, Massimo Bebber. This place is not cheap, but it’s about what you’d expect to find in the rarefied stratosphere of Fifth Avenue across the street from Central Park. Bebber recently invited Gothamist to a press preview of his new fall menu, and we were particularly impressed with the Capesante con Funghi: Seared Maine sea scallops, chanterelles purée, roasted wild mushrooms, black truffle sauce. Obviously that’s a fresh & real black truffle sauce, not some ersatz truffle oil simulacrum, which, for $39, it better be. The sauce is a rich but not overpowering compliment to the scallops, which are fat and fresh and succulent.
Sirio Maccioni and family are excited to announce the debut of Massimo Bebber as executive chef at Sirio Ristorante New York at The Pierre, A Taj Hotel, New York. Born and raised in Roncegno, a town in the province of Trento, Italy, Chef Bebber developed a passion for culinary pursuits at a very early age, inspired by his father, an avid cook, and older brother, who remains a chef in Northern Italy to this day. Chef Bebber is thrilled to join the Maccioni family legacy with his new position as executive chef at Sirio Ristorante New York. He looks forward to putting his own twist on the restaurant’s seasonal Italian cuisine and catering to the crowd he knows so well. Never one to shy away from rolling up his sleeves, Bebber is eager to get to work in the kitchen alongside a fantastic team. When he’s not honing his culinary skills, Bebber enjoys downhill skiing, snowboarding, spending time with his wife and playing sports with his three young sons.
SIRIO: A FABULOUS, FASHIONABLE, AND INCREDIBLY TASTEFUL FASHION WEEK DINING EXPERIENCE
SEPTEMBER 9TH, 2013
There is always something delightful about going to dinner in a hotel as elegant and historic as the Pierre on Fifth Avenue. But with the announcement that the Sirio Ristorante was offering a special menu to celebrate New York Fashion Week, it seemed like an excellent opportunity to sample new chef Massimo Bebber’s cuisine. Perusing the prix fixe menu, available for both lunch and dinner, it was wonderful to see choices that will suit the calorie-counting, waistline-watching set without sacrificing the signature style for which the food of Central Italy is known.
I decided on tuna tartar to start, which was both deliciously fresh and perfectly seasoned. My dining companion had a beautiful salad of bitter arugula and velvety baby artichokes, garnished with salty slivers of tasty parmensan. Our second course, small plates of fresh pasta, were equally satisfying, although I coveted the roasted cherry tomatoes on his plate of garganelli since they exploded in your mouth like scrumptious little bombs. My gnocchi were a fabulously sensual experience; a heady smell of truffle oil rose from my bowl, a cloud of parmesan foam floated on top, and the delicious little pieces themselves were the most beautiful texture in my mouth.
It was when we came to our entrée choices that there was a little dissent between the two of us but thankfully, he is a generous, sharing man who didn’t mind that I stole half his scallops which both of us were in raptures over. They were just the most amazing morsels; perfectly seared with a slight caramelization on the outside whilst remaining succulent and soft on the inside. The earthy chantrelle puree that accompanied them was the perfect balance to their sweetness. My swordfish was also cooked to perfection – for me, medium rare on this meaty fish really showcases its beautiful, delicate flavor.
There was no argument over dessert since there was only one choice but we both in heaven by then anyway; creamy ricotta cheesecake with a tangy citrus salad was the perfect end to a most memorable meal.
Our whole dining experience was overseen by the incredibly gracious and knowledgeable Massimo Schiavon, who is not only the restaurant manager but has also selected some amazing wines to pair with each course; we are still talking about the ‘Missoni’ Cabernet Sauvignon that elevated my gnocchi course into something sublime and the Sancerre Rosé ‘Les Marennes’ which perfectly complimented those to-die-for scallops.
It is always with great glee – and a certain amount of smugness – that you can feel you’ve truly made a discovery on the culinary scene. The combination of a remarkable chef, a charming manager and the dining elegance at Sirio is extraordinary and if this menu, which is remarkably good value, is anything to go by, I will become one of their regular customers.
“Enjoying a glass of wine on a beautiful summer day is one of the better pleasures of life,” gushes wine consultant Marco Maccioni, who oversees the wine and beverage program at Sirio Ristorante. “That pleasant experience may be compromised if one were to adhere to the old-fashioned rule of wine drinking: that red wines should [always] be
served at room temperature,” says Maccioni. So, in the name of summertime dolce vita, we asked the wine lover and expert for some guidance on which reds chill best.
To chill: “Fruit-forward varietals such as pinot noir, barbera, frappato, and even some sangioveses.”
Not to chill: “Big California cabernets, Bordeaux, brunellos, and barolos.”
When in doubt: “Hold your bottle of red to the light. If you can see quite easily through it, that will tell you that it is a wine of light body and structure, and more appropriate for chilling. Your knowledge of the wine is important, because you should make sure it’s a fruit-forward wine that hasn’t spent much time aging in wood—if any at all.”
Bottles to buy: “Some of our favorites here at the restaurant are a pinot noirs from Argyle Winery in Oregon, or from Franz Haas in Trentino Alto-Adige in Italy. A sangiovese such as Chianti Classico Monsanto from Tuscany, or the fruity frappato of Cerasuolo di Vittoria by Planeta in Sicily.”
Personal favorite: “My ultimate favorite is the lively, slightly bubbly Barbera La Monella by Giacomo Bologna-Braida in Piedmont, Italy. That’s the ultimate accompaniment to a charcuterie while you’re firing up your grill, or simply watching the waves lap up onto the beach.”
Read more at http://gotham-magazine.com/the-latest/food-and-drink-news/postings/marco-maccionis-chilled-red-wine-tips#t0FYBH7QhiziwQaO.99
Regarding the latter, you’ve now got Sirio. It’s a low-slung hall of mod-’60s sexiness and serious Italian fare. It’s taking reservations right now and opening November 1 at the Pierre. And this is how you’ll make it sing…
Dinner for two. Or, if you’re feeling ambitious (and potent), three.
You’ve basically stepped into Mastroianni-era Italy here. Dim lighting, horizontal lines, banquettes with white leather piping, and mushroom risotto and lamb shank with artichokes. We presume that’s what he ate. Continue reading
Upper East Siders with a penchant for pasta will soon be spoiled for choice. First up, Sirio Ristorante(795Fifth Ave.), a spot serving classic Tuscan cuisine, opens in the Pierre Hotel later this month.It’s the brain child of legendary restaurateur (and creator of Le Cirque) Sirio Maccioni, and his sons, Marco, Mauro and Mario. “Sirio is not going to be a ?ne dining experience at the same level as Le Cirque,” says Marco Maccioni,who has hired designer Adam Tihany to turn the space that was Le Caprice into a dining room inspired by Fellini’s “La Dolce Vita.” Diversifying in Le Cirque’s ’hood makes sense, says Maccioni: “The Upper East Side is our home. Mydad made his success in that neighborhood.So it’s a return of sorts.And I grew up in this neighborhood. Literally,it’s my playground; so it’s nice to be able to walk to work.”
“Legendary restaurateur Sirio Maccioni will bring a version of his Las Vegas Italian restaurant to the former Le Caprice space in the Pierre Hotel. Adam Tihany is designing a retro space that will include vintage photos of Maccioni with his famous clientele. Sirio and his posse were recently in Italy doing research for the new menu, which will focus on the food of Tuscany.”